A wild winter escape to Captain Blake’s Retreat

The adventure begins long before reaching this hideaway. Cruising along the coastal road, a seemingly endless swathe of sandy shore fringes the journey - offering a breathtaking taste of what’s in store. Shortly after turning down a track, we’re met with a wheelbarrow to transport our belongings along the South West Coast Path and the few hundred paces that lead us to our abode for the weekend: Captain Blake’s Retreat.

Etched into the cliff and overlooking Whitsand Bay (one of Cornwall’s longest beaches), on arrival it’s clear that our escape into nature will be a wildly special one. Nestled above the coastpath along its own track, Captain Blake’s Retreat is perfectly private while offering easy access to the beach and boasting views that take the eyes hostage. Our dog, Griff, appeared to be just as much in awe as we were!

The unmatched beauty of Cornwall is only accentuated when the wild horses of the sea stampede and the moody skies unfurl overhead; and at Captain Blake’s Retreat, the show was ours for the taking. With ocean vistas as far as the head can tilt, we spent the weekend captivated by the seascape before us, while encased in a cocoon of blissful comfort. 

Inside the hideaway, the open-plan layout features many windows to make the most of the views, giving us long, leisurely breakfasts while gazing out to sea, and a relaxed space for evening cook-ups before lounging on the sofa. Enwrapped in cosiness while the sea roared outside, evenings were savoured with plenty of rest and turning the pages of a good book. This dog-friendly hideaway was a huge hit with our four-legged travel companion, as he dreamed away the hours in front of the wood burner.

Rebelling against the temptation to hunker down for the entire weekend, the lure of exploration called and you don’t have to venture far to answer it. Just a few moments on the coastpath took us down to the beach, where Griff loved running along the sand. And the best part? The short trot back to Captain Blake’s Retreat where the familiar warmth of the wood burner waited and a delightfully hot outdoor shower added to the thrill of being outdoors in winter. A hot brew (with a view) was welcome, too!

Also enticingly close is Rame Head, a true highlight of The Rame Peninsula. The short one-mile walk along the coastpath gave us striking views of the Bay and Captain Blake’s Retreat sitting pretty in its prime position. Seabirds circled overhead and the winds whipped up as we reached the beautifully-weathered St Michael’s Chapel and took a moment to soak up our surroundings. Despite its close proximity to the bustling town of Torpoint and the port city of Plymouth, this peninsula is often described as ‘Cornwall’s forgotten corner’, and that’s exactly the draw here; its remote and otherworldly feel. And it was at this very point, enveloped by jagged cliffs, wild seas, and the ancient landmark, that we felt it most. 

Not far from our doorstep, we also enjoyed visiting the hidden, intertwined villages of Cawsand and Kingsand, where swimmers bobbed around in the sheltered, glassy bay and people gathered for a bite at the popular Bay bar and restaurant. And a little further afield, Mount Edgcumbe House and Country Park made for a wonderful afternoon discovering its enchanting gardens that span over 800 acres. Here, The Farriers Café, with its stable booths and interesting equestrian tack lining the walls, is a great spot for lunch and a delicious piece of cake. 

From the stormy seas that winter brings to the sun-kissed sands in spring, a stay at Captain Blake’s Retreat offers a truly unique experience of the Cornish coast during each season. Discover more about this special hideaway and trace your own footsteps along the most intriguing corner of Cornwall…