Fireside Feasts: Welsh flavours over the flames

For the second instalment, Connor heads to Caban Tarren in Wales, an off-grid hideaway on the hillside, where mountain-framed views unfold in every direction. Inspired by the independent food scene in nearby Crickhowell, he shares a beautifully simple recipe of Welsh lamb chops with puttanesca potatoes and charred asparagus, cooked over coals and enjoyed with the stunning scenery as his backdrop.

Welsh Lamb chops with puttanesca potatoes & asparagus

“This one was about locality, independence and season. Caban Tarren sits deep in the Welsh hills, in a village called Crickhowell that's impossible not to fall for. Every shop here has its own character, every shopkeeper a story to tell, and the whole place has a welcoming feel that had me itching to get a fire going and cook something inspired.

Everything for this cook was bought from the village itself. The lamb was from the Black Mountains, sold out of Cashells - the local butchers, who were rightly proud of where it came from. Crickhowell also has its share of artisan bakers, refill stores and grocers who clearly care about provenance, and it made shopping for this feel like part of the cook, not just prep for it.

The cook itself stays simple - the point is to let the ingredients do the work. With views like these in front of you, the last thing you want is to have your head down for hours of prep. 

The saltiness of the puttanesca potatoes cuts straight through the fattiness of the lamb, and what you're left with is a plate of harmonious, fresh flavours that taste like where they came from.”

Serves 4

• 1kg new potatoes, halved
•  8 lamb chops
•  100g pitted black olives, chopped
•  4 cloves garlic, finely sliced
•  1 tbsp capers, chopped
•  5 anchovies, chopped
•  Chilli flakes (to taste)
•  3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
•  50g butter
•  500g asparagus
•  Parsley, fresh

Method

Par-boil the potatoes until softened, then drain and set aside. While the potatoes boil and you prep the rest, get a good bed of coals going on the barbecue if you're cooking outside.

Lightly score the fat on the lamb to help it render, then rub salt into all sides. Bring the chops up to room temperature before cooking; this stops the meat tightening when it hits the heat.

Cook the lamb fat-side down first in a cast iron pan; this renders the fat without it dripping into the fire and flaring up. Once golden and rendered, move the chops onto the grill to finish on both sides for a few minutes, alongside the asparagus lightly coated in oil and seasoning.

Into the same pan, add the olives, garlic, capers, anchovies and chilli flakes, frying in the lamb fat. Stir in the butter until softened, then add the potatoes, pressing gently with the back of a spatula to help the skins crisp. Turn every minute or two until golden brown.

Take the lamb off to rest while you finish the potatoes. Serve everything up generously, finished with fresh parsley and a final drizzle of oil.

Field’s note: I served this dish on a fantastic spalted beech chopping board that I made with the host of this stay, Tanya. She runs a workshop called Toolbox Tan on the same site and I would highly recommend pairing this cookout with some time spent crafting something totally unique.

Perfect pairing: A Rioja Crianza (Muga or CVNE), the tannin and savoury, leathery character cut through the lamb's fat and echo the char from the fire, while standing up to the saltiness of the puttanesca potatoes. For a more local match, White Castle Vineyard's Pinot Noir (Monmouthshire) keeps the pairing rooted in the same ground the lamb came from.

Follow along for more fire pit recipes.