A spellbinding bothy by the sea

Meaning ‘of the sea’, Na Mara is completely immersed in its breathtaking landscape. Perched in patchwork fields with sheep gently grazing, the views roll across countryside to the glistening sea beyond, dotted with islands and framed by mountains. This piece of paradise was all ours for a few days, and we instantly felt our cares melt away. 

With its own private beach, we were looking forward to lots of dips in the sea and kayaking around the coastline, but there’s no rush to do anything in a spot as beautiful as this. So we lit the fire pit, took a seat, and simply admired our surroundings for a while with our dog by our side choosing to do exactly the same. 

As the day gently unfurled and the sun dipped over the horizon, brushing the ocean with lilac and gold hues, the wood-fired outdoor bath was the perfect place to soak up golden hour. After stoking the fire and filling the tub with bubbles, I relaxed into the depths of the tub for the most soothing soak, complemented by endless ocean and mountain views. 

While the bothy’s surroundings paint the most enchanting picture, the hideaway itself has an alluring magic of its own. Off-grid and thoughtfully renovated, the interiors boast many charming features, from characterful stone walls and a hearty wood burner at one end to the handcrafted, open-plan kitchen-diner at the other. Traditionally a croft, it’s values are still evident here, gifting those who walk through its doors a greater connection to nature and sense of peace that comes with it.  

After unwinding by the crackling fire for the evening and turning the pages of coffee table books brimming with Scottish scenes, the whitewashed ladder led the way to the comfy bedroom in the eaves, where slumber was irresistible as a lullaby of waves softly lapped the shore.

Rising the next morning to the call of the ocean, we made our way across the field to the bothy’s wonderfully private beach. Our dog loved running across the sand, while I floated on the water with the sun dancing across its glassy surface. A magnetic spot, we took a brief hiatus for breakfast on the picnic bench before returning to the beach with kayaks. Gently gliding through the still waters, I was accompanied by an inquisitive seal - one of many moments where the wildlife reminded me just how secluded this spot is. A top location for birdwatching, woodpeckers and owls also made captivating appearances during our stay.

To further admire Na Mara’s unique setting, we followed the footpath straight from its door and uphill to Lady Margaret’s Tower, an old observatory sitting on a ridge above Ardmucknish Bay and boasting uninterrupted views in every direction. We particularly enjoyed this walk at sunset for a dazzling display as golden rays wrapped a cape around the bothy and seascape below. 

Na Mara offers the dreamiest place to step away from the hum of life and reset. Days are easily spent bathing in its beauty, but of course, it’s hard to resist the draw of exploration in a corner as mesmerising as West Scotland. All kinds of adventures await beyond the gates of Lochnell Estate, from island hopping in Oban to explore the Inner and Outer Hebrides, to hikes in Ben Nevis and Glen Coe National Scenic Area, one of the UK's best locations for walking. 

Sometimes, my favourite thing is simply to drive along the mountain roads, stopping to capture a picture and spontaneously choosing a trail to explore. As we headed for Glencoe, we came across an iconic landmark - and one that I’d admired in the bothy’s coffee table book - the Lagangarbh Hut. Affectionately known as the Wee White House, this National Trust-owned croft nestles at the foot of towering mountains with trickling streams and is encompassed by a tapestry of paths inviting you to soak up the magical setting up close and on foot. 

We also loved visiting Port Appin, just a half-hour drive from Na Mara, where we discovered another eye-catching landmark, Castle Stalker - a small marooned fort of Monty Python fame - before reaching the quaint waterside setting of the Pierhouse restaurant, one of the best places to eat in Argyll and Bute for its fresh seafood and spectacular views. 

While Scotland’s remote and beautiful corners offer a feast for the senses, our cosy bothy soon lured us back, returning to our very own Scottish haven under a blanket of stars. Hanging the lanterns and lighting the fire, we opened a bottle and toasted a weekend we wouldn’t forget - the sort of escape that truly nourishes your soul, in a setting of otherworldly proportions.